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Can You Drive a Car When the Turbo Is Gone

buyingpeak [OP]
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Jan 22, 2007
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May 17th, 2009 12:09 pm

Can car still run with blown turbo?

I'm contemplating whether or whether not to buy a car with a blown turbo. I have the money for the car, but not the turbo as of yet. My question is, can a car with a blown turbo still drive? If so, how bad is it for the engine?

Thanks

Luckyinfil wrote: ↑No gym for home, work out floor with 30, but is it for 20 like 30 lb when you no lift it to be for men, for 30 lbs instead? or half is 10 for 20 pounds?

UMM HOW i word this... ok u take 20 lbs no lifting for 30lb if guy, so divide 2 u dont sit, u get 10 but for guy it no 30, so 20 would be for guy if u werent a girl ?

May 17th, 2009 12:14 pm
  • #2
B0000rt
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May 17th, 2009 12:14 pm

Depends on what blown turbo means. If ones the whole turbine etc, and run it without that, you'll have horrible lower issues due to the low compression

It'll be like driving a 3 cylinder Geo Metro, or Toyota Tercel or worse

it's me ramin.

May 17th, 2009 12:22 pm
  • #3
AudiDude
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May 17th, 2009 12:22 pm

Define blown turbo. Wastegate stuck open? Wastegate stuck closed. Bearings gone. What car is it.

May 17th, 2009 12:52 pm
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KawaiiTentacleBeast
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May 17th, 2009 12:52 pm

If it's a modern car I think it should be fine as long as you drive it gently. Turbo cars don't run on boost most of the time anyway so it will be no different and the EFI should be able to manage.

If we're talking about a 1970s Porsche 911 Turbo or Maserati with the turbocharger blowing through the carburator then I probably wouldn't.

May 17th, 2009 1:18 pm
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nornet
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May 17th, 2009 1:18 pm

KawaiiTentacleBeast statement on the available power without a turbo is absolutely correct. Many turbo assisted engines never get boosted more than a couple of times a year. The loss of turbo assist isn't the problem. It's the possible loss of some metallic fragments that are of far greater concern. It is conceivable that the engine has received major damage by sucking in these fragments. This sounds like a gamble.

May 17th, 2009 1:31 pm
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KawaiiTentacleBeast
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May 17th, 2009 1:31 pm

It's the possible loss of some metallic fragments that are of far greater concern. It is conceivable that the engine has received major damage by sucking in these fragments. This sounds like a gamble.

I don't think this is an issue. It isn't really common for the cold side of a turbo to fragment, since the cold side isn't exposed to the exhaust and is designed specifically to resist damage from foreign objects. Furthermore most modern turbo cars have intercoolers that would block any sort of debris from entering the engine. Again if you're talking about some 1970s non-intercooled Porsche or Maserati or CA18ET Nissan 200SX then maybe not. It would depend on what kind of damage the turbo has sustained though.

Anyway I was only commenting on whether you could drive it without the turbo. I think the OP understands that turbochargers don't usually just fail on their own without poor maintanence or modification/abuse, so he knows what he's getting into.

May 17th, 2009 1:48 pm
  • #7
nornet
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May 17th, 2009 1:48 pm

KawaiiTentacleBeast wrote: ↑I don't think this is an issue. It isn't really common for the cold side of a turbo to fragment, since the cold side isn't exposed to the exhaust and is designed specifically to resist damage from foreign objects. Furthermore most modern turbo cars have intercoolers that would block any sort of debris from entering the engine. Again if you're talking about some 1970s non-intercooled Porsche or Maserati or CA18ET Nissan 200SX then maybe not. It would depend on what kind of damage the turbo has sustained though.

Anyway I was only commenting on whether you could drive it without the turbo. I think the OP understands that turbochargers don't usually just fail on their own without poor maintanence or modification/abuse, so he knows what he's getting into.

My only exposure to turbos is with Subaru. When the turbo goes it is fairly common to have to rebuild the engine.

May 17th, 2009 2:04 pm
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KawaiiTentacleBeast
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May 17th, 2009 2:04 pm

Yeah, I just did some more reading and I guess it's possible, depending on how the turbo is oriented, for bits of the turbine side to fall back into the exhaust manifold. But without knowing what kind of car it is it would be speculation at this point.

I hope it's a 1970s Porsche or Maserati Biturbo. :lol:

May 17th, 2009 3:12 pm
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buyingpeak [OP]
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May 17th, 2009 3:12 pm

The car is a 1998 Audi A4 1.8T (well, no T for now, hah). It's fairly cheap (~$1500).

What im thinking of doing is scrapping a turbo from a junk yard (~$500).

Can a turbo be installed by myself or does it need to be done at a shop? From what i've been reading, the main part is the piping, and removing the components to access the turbo.

Do you think it's worth it? If I would need to rebuild the engine, then how much would that cost? Also, I thought turbo's die, every so often (maybe 10 years?)...so it wouldn't be because of abuse or modification..no?

So basically I can drive the car, it would just be severly underpowered right?

Luckyinfil wrote: ↑No gym for home, work out floor with 30, but is it for 20 like 30 lb when you no lift it to be for men, for 30 lbs instead? or half is 10 for 20 pounds?

UMM HOW i word this... ok u take 20 lbs no lifting for 30lb if guy, so divide 2 u dont sit, u get 10 but for guy it no 30, so 20 would be for guy if u werent a girl ?

May 17th, 2009 3:29 pm
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Circuit
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May 17th, 2009 3:29 pm

nornet wrote: ↑KawaiiTentacleBeast statement on the available power without a turbo is absolutely correct. Many turbo assisted engines never get boosted more than a couple of times a year. The loss of turbo assist isn't the problem. It's the possible loss of some metallic fragments that are of far greater concern. It is conceivable that the engine has received major damage by sucking in these fragments. This sounds like a gamble.

nornet: Define "Boost" please?

onecoolloser: A 1.8T from 1998 A4 is usually an AEB model engine which spools at 1750RPM.... Sooooo... Any driving UNDER 1750RPM will be similar to normal, and any driving OVER 1750RPM will be reduced performance.

May 17th, 2009 4:05 pm
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nornet
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May 17th, 2009 4:05 pm

Circuit wrote: ↑nornet: Define "Boost" please?

onecoolloser: A 1.8T from 1998 A4 is usually an AEB model engine which spools at 1750RPM.... Sooooo... Any driving UNDER 1750RPM will be similar to normal, and any driving OVER 1750RPM will be reduced performance.

Sorry totally the wrong word, should have been engaged. The cold temps this weekend are affecting my brain.

edit. When I wrote this we didn't know the OP was looking at an Audi. That statement pertains to Volvos.

May 17th, 2009 6:28 pm
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buyingpeak [OP]
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May 17th, 2009 6:28 pm

Do you guys think it's worth it to buy the car?

Luckyinfil wrote: ↑No gym for home, work out floor with 30, but is it for 20 like 30 lb when you no lift it to be for men, for 30 lbs instead? or half is 10 for 20 pounds?

UMM HOW i word this... ok u take 20 lbs no lifting for 30lb if guy, so divide 2 u dont sit, u get 10 but for guy it no 30, so 20 would be for guy if u werent a girl ?

May 17th, 2009 6:32 pm
  • #13
VivienM
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May 17th, 2009 6:32 pm

onecoolloser wrote: ↑Do you guys think it's worth it to buy the car?

Are you a skilled mechanic, or do you have a good buddy or brother in law who is and who can help you fix the thing?

May 17th, 2009 8:30 pm
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beerbaron105
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May 17th, 2009 8:30 pm

nornet wrote: ↑KawaiiTentacleBeast statement on the available power without a turbo is absolutely correct. Many turbo assisted engines never get boosted more than a couple of times a year. The loss of turbo assist isn't the problem. It's the possible loss of some metallic fragments that are of far greater concern. It is conceivable that the engine has received major damage by sucking in these fragments. This sounds like a gamble.

Apparently you have never driven a boosted vehicle before? You are entering boost pretty much any time your foot is over halfway down on the throttle and at least 2000 rpms or greater and accelerating

May 17th, 2009 9:55 pm
  • #15
UberDave
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May 17th, 2009 9:55 pm

I know nothing about turbo'd cars but I highly doubt it will pass an e-test with a blown turbo. You can buy the car as-is but to get it licensed you'll probably have to fix it.

May 17th, 2009 10:00 pm
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KorruptioN
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May 17th, 2009 10:00 pm

VivienM wrote: ↑Are you a skilled mechanic, or do you have a good buddy or brother in law who is and who can help you fix the thing?

onecoolloser wrote: ↑Can a turbo be installed by myself or does it need to be done at a shop? From what i've been reading, the main part is the piping, and removing the components to access the turbo.

Do you think it's worth it? If I would need to rebuild the engine, then how much would that cost? Also, I thought turbo's die, every so often (maybe 10 years?)...so it wouldn't be because of abuse or modification..no?

If you have to ask... then probably not. It's a lot of hard work that even a skilled do-it-yourselfer (not a mechanic) would be overwhelmed. I'd stay far away.

Deal with it.

May 17th, 2009 11:27 pm
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bob0
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May 17th, 2009 11:27 pm

i'd probably stay away from the car as you dont know why the turbo went bad. chances are it's due to bad care/maintenance, turbos if well maintained should last awhile (bearings do fail but i wouldnt assume on a 11yr old car? i could be wrong... my experience is with a mr2 and there's a lot of these still running around with the original turbo and these are like 17-18yr old cars)

in any case, turbo cars usually end up needing more maintenance and i'd recommend staying away especially if money is tight.

May 17th, 2009 11:49 pm
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-=phelan=-
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May 17th, 2009 11:49 pm

i would only buy a blown turbo car if i knew how to fix the thing myself.

May 18th, 2009 1:27 am
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AudiDude
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May 18th, 2009 1:27 am

Circuit wrote: ↑nornet: Define "Boost" please?

onecoolloser: A 1.8T from 1998 A4 is usually an AEB model engine which spools at 1750RPM.... Sooooo... Any driving UNDER 1750RPM will be similar to normal, and any driving OVER 1750RPM will be reduced performance.

You can drive a car with the engine over 1750 RPM and not have the turbo adding boost.

onecoolloser wrote: ↑Do you guys think it's worth it to buy the car?

So long as there is nothing else wrong with the car, I'd do it, but I know many places to get a new turbo put in. Also it better be a stick, and quattro. If it is an auto my plans to put in a better turbo go out the window, if it is a quattro, it does not do the same emissions test and gets an easier to pass test.

UberDave wrote: ↑I know nothing about turbo'd cars but I highly doubt it will pass an e-test with a blown turbo. You can buy the car as-is but to get it licensed you'll probably have to fix it.

You'd be wrong , I've seen it done, repeatedly.

bob0 wrote: ↑i'd probably stay away from the car as you dont know why the turbo went bad. chances are it's due to bad care/maintenance, turbos if well maintained should last awhile (bearings do fail but i wouldnt assume on a 11yr old car? i could be wrong... my experience is with a mr2 and there's a lot of these still running around with the original turbo and these are like 17-18yr old cars)

in any case, turbo cars usually end up needing more maintenance and i'd recommend staying away especially if money is tight.

In the A4 the wastegate rod becomes disconnected from the diaphragm and the turbo does not work, but it is not blown. If it stays in this state for a long time (not connected) it can cause damage due to the internals flapping. A new better turbo and ECU can be about $1700 plus about another $600 to put it in. This would offer increased performance. A cheaper option is to buy a turbo and have it rebuilt and swap it in, or just swap in a known working turbo from an enthusiast doing an upgrade.

Driving the car with no turbo would be like driving a regular Civic/Corolla. If you want, the car could easily reach 180+Km/h with no turbo. With no turbo, the car will not get as good gas mileage as if it would were it to be working. Usually engines with more boost get even better MPG (2-3 mpg). Stick plus no turbo is about 500-550 Km per tank (55 litres max) in a quattro, and better in a FWD.

May 18th, 2009 10:01 am
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nornet
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May 18th, 2009 10:01 am

beerbaron105 wrote: ↑Apparently you have never driven a boosted vehicle before? You are entering boost pretty much any time your foot is over halfway down on the throttle and at least 2000 rpms or greater and accelerating

Not sure I understand as you ended the sentence with a question mark. I've driven an S60 (a neighbours) and you can feel it engage when you depress the throttle about 75% but at half throttle it lumbers along. He's had the car over 2 years and under almost 100% city driving virtually never has the turbo engaged.

Can You Drive a Car When the Turbo Is Gone

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